Watches & Wonders 2024: Diary of a Timekeeper

Many years ago, when Watches & Wonders was called SIHH (and AP & Journe were present), I didn’t get a formal invite to attend, so I booked the only “room” I could afford, an AirBnB. At 50 Euros, it was a steal. What I didn’t realise was that it was actually inside a Thai massage parlour, wasn’t a room at all, but a single leather bed/chair – you know the type, still warm from the previous punter. My face was in the hole of the chair, and I slept like a baby. I was just grateful to be in the hustle and bustle of the city during the show. So, this year, things went far more smoothly. A total of 54 brands all showed new watches, and there were a number of standouts. 

In classic Rolex style, it was evolution, not revolution. Overall, it was a quieter year than last (no emojis or celebration dials). The clear winners were a black dial GMT Master II with jubilee and oyster bracelet and a solid yellow gold Deepsea. But I got lucky to be able to see the new yellow gold Le Mans, which is replacing the white gold variation, which was in production for just one year—a first for modern Rolex. 

Cartier smashed it. So many new models I couldn’t even count. The focus was shapes and design, with inspiration this year coming from animals. My favorite from the lineup, however, was, in fact, a Santos-Dumont, which had the time reflected backwards on dial with a burgundy red dial and applied Roman numerals. Cartier came into the show absolutely flying, and they've left at rocket speed. We then moved to Tudor, where we saw an entirely new reworked black Bay, which many feel could be a genuine challenge to the submariner's reign as the ultimate steel sports watch. Oh and lets not forget the solid yellow gold Black Bay with green dial! Totally bonkers but so good! 

For IWC it was a year of refinement. The Schaffhausen-based maker masterfully reworks the Portugieser line-up with considerate adjustments to the dial (now mainly lacquerer) and an entirely reworked case, which ultimately made the profile thinner. But the real show stopper was the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – a secular perpetual calendar with a white lacquer dial and glass sub dials, as well as a moon phase, which is now accurate to 45,000,000 years! It was none other than Dr Brian Cox who launched the watch – not only a personal hero of mine and an unexpected star of the show. 

Vacheron Constantin has been on fire! It took the opportunity to present the Berkley Grand Complication pocket watch, which boasts no fewer than 63 complications and 2,877 components, took eleven years of research and development. It was insane. A proper flex where it has taken its classic Patrimony dress watch reduced it in size from 40 millimetres to 39 millimetres, added an old silver dial for vintage vibes and had some fun with its strap options. This is a watch that Brunello Cuccinelli wears on a daily basis by all accounts and, therefore, enjoys cult status amongst the most stylish. There were also updates in the overseas collection with new yellow gold cases and green dolls which will no doubt be welcomed by so many collectors. We then went away to show pod, where I was continually impressed with the level of watchmaking and craft. The showstoppers were a minute repeater with a guilloche dial, which was remarkably beautiful and crisp, as well as a LUC Qualite Fleurier with a silver dial and 39mm case. There was also a very beautiful open-worked Alpine eagle in titanium with no date window for the very first time, which I was thankful for.

NOMOS were all about pure fun this year with 31 limited edition Tangente watches in different colourways. It might well have been my favourite visit to the whole show for pure joy. As you can imagine, the stand was minimal but beautifully done, and the team just seemed to be having so much fun. The real challenge was, of course, choosing which colourway you would go for! In many ways, it represented probably the best value for money at the show, with the watches retailing at just under 2000 EUR less than the standard Tangente. 

Patek Philippe, the In-line Perpetual Calendar 5236P with a rose dial, was no doubt the showstopper of 2024's lineup. There was also an Aquanaut reference 5269 R with blue dye or blue rubber strap rose gold case in 38-millimeter format, which will also be irresistible to so many with slightly smaller wrists he'll stop. But the handcrafts seen on pocket watches and Calatrava with enamelling and wood marquetry were mind-blowing! 

Jaeger-LeCoultre relaunched my absolute favourite watch: the Duometre. When Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Duometre collection in 2007, it was groundbreaking for its use of two separate barrels and independent gear trains, one for keeping time and one for powering the complications. This year, JLC has updated the Duometre with a trio of new watches, headlined by the Duometre Chronograph Moon. Offered in platinum with a copper dial or rose gold with a silver opaline dial, the Chronograph Moon builds on previous versions of the Duometre with the new JLC calibre 391 that powers a chronograph, moon phase, day-night indicator and a 1/6th-second counter. My pick was the blue dial, steel case variation. For somebody looking for a highly complex, left-field option you just don’t see in the wild – this is it! There is a reason they call JLC the watchmakers – watchmakers. 

Quite possibly, my sports favourite was the Zenith Diver DEFY Revival A3648. Inspired by the reference A3648 launched in 1969, it presented an alternative take on Zenith’s rugged steel bracelet watch. The A3648 was not only among the earliest DEFY wristwatch models but also one of the first DEFY diver’s watches. Even by today’s standards, the A3648 boasted incredible performance in a watch that seamlessly merges style and substance (and that dial is right up my alley). This is summer 2024 in a nutshell. At Bell & Ross, there was a stonking value full ceramic bracelet and case in its new BR05. If you appreciate the cool cockpit tool watch aesthetic, then this might well be the best value offer from the Parisian-based maker yet. 

Ferdinand Berthoud was incredible. The sister brand to Chopard is a sleeper of the haute horological world. The new Chronometre FB 2RES.6-2 and FB 2RES.2-1 (they need to do something about those names…) are insane! They are fully customisable by client request. The name was an old one in the watch world, which was rejuvenated and had expertise in marine chronometers. These models have open dials, chains and fuse and remontoir. But for me, it's all about the finishing (beautiful angle and black polishing) and that case! Beautiful and unlike anything in the watch world. 

It’s incredible to think it was less than a year ago TAG Heuer released the new look “glass box” Skipper. And at the show this year, my favourite from its lineup was the variation in rose gold. This new variation retains its blue dial and nautical-themed colouring (even down to the red hand for the chronograph seconds). Sizing remains the same, with the gold Skipper measuring 39mm wide, 13.9m thick (including the sapphire crystal), and 46mm lug-to-lug. The movement is also unchanged from its steel sibling, with the Skipper using a special version of the Heuer 02, the TH-20-06. That means you get a 12-hour column wheel actuated chronograph along with a date at six and central chronograph seconds. The movement ticks at 4 Hz and offers a power reserve of 80 hours. But to me, it’s all about that dial! There’s nothing else quite like it. 

Bremont may just have been the most talked about story at the show (at least by the UK press). The brand based in Henley recently rook venture capital, and the Founding brothers have stepped away from the day-to-day (while remaining on the board). Now, folks out there could be really quite scathing about Bremont in years gone by, so it was mildly amusing to see the outcry when it presented its new look and feel. In addition to a new logo and brand DNA, it has reduced its price point by about half and developed an entirely new design for its field watch. Designed by new CEO Davide Cerrato, the watches look nothing like their predecessors. And like change in any facet of life – there will always be initial dismay. The question is – will it last or will the brand forge a new state of mind that speaks to current and future enthusiasts? 

Frederique Constant delivered a combination of looks and value to the Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture. A series of dial colours in a 40mm steel case and as the name suggests an automatic in-house caliber with 72 hours power reserve. The dials are the stars of the show, with balance and poise, date and moonphase at 6 o'clock. The silver was my favourite, by a case could be made for either of the blue, salmon or green. A manufacturer to watch for sure – and on the rise. 

Piaget has been flying of late. And while it has an illustrious history when it comes to ultra-thin watchmaking, few appreciate how the manufacturer shaped the industry. So this year, there was no messing! It came out with the world's thinnest tourbillon at 2mm.  With over a decade of R&R, and a view through the tourbillon itself from both sides of the watch – it was one of the memorable spectacles of the week (just don’t ask me how they did it!). What a watch. What a statement. 

Anyone who follows me on social media will know I’m a huge Laurent Ferrier fan. I just feel that Laurent himself (he was responsible for the Aquanaut at Patek) has an eye for design like no other. And while I love everything the brand does almost – the Classic Moon with aventurine stone moon phase in rose gold/steel classic 40mm Galet case was extra special. Drop dead gorgeous! 

A special mention for Berneron, not formally at the show, but my god, have they made a case for being this year's Simon Brette success story. Founded by Sylvain Bergeron, the chief product officer at Breitling – the Mirage, his first watch boasts a fluid case shape made around a stunning movement. If the design speaks to you – keep an eye out for them in years to come; I’m calling it now – they will be a big name one day. 

Hermès was the big surprise for me (although it shouldn’t be – it has been smashing it with the H08, among others, for years now). But this all-new “woman’s” watch – The Cut was sublime. Sporty, round, entirely new vs the H08, a squishy sports strap for summer and no date! When they make it slightly larger (38mm would be perfect! )– I am all in!

All in all the show was tremendous. It maybe wasn’t a year for multiple blockbusters – but when you step back and consider what we presented – there was design, technical innovation. And risk taking in abundance.